Chena Hot Springs: Alaska’s Geothermal Wonder and Northern Lights Paradise

Picture this: You’re soaking neck-deep in 106-degree mineral water that’s been heated by the earth itself for thousands of years. Steam rises around you into air so cold it’s 40 below zero. Above, the aurora borealis puts on a show that no human artist could replicate, waves of green and purple light dancing across an impossibly vast Alaskan sky. This isn’t some fantasy bucket list dream. This is just Tuesday night at Chena Hot Springs.

Welcome to one of Alaska’s most remarkable destinations, where geothermal activity meets arctic wilderness, where you can tour a museum made entirely of ice before warming up in naturally heated pools, and where the combination of location, innovation, and sheer Alaskan audacity creates experiences unavailable anywhere else on Earth.

The Chena Hot Spring Story

The hot springs at Chena were discovered in August 1905 by Robert Swan and William Greats, prospectors searching for gold who instead found something more enduring. Word spread quickly among Fairbanks miners that these waters could cure aches and pains that came from months of hard labor in brutal conditions. What began as an accidental discovery by gold seekers became legendary for healing crippled prospectors.

By the early 1900s, Fairbanks residents would make the arduous multi-day journey just to soak in these healing waters. According to the Alaska.org, Chena Hot Springs Resort operates a big indoor pool and handsome outdoor wading lake, all constantly replenished by pungent mineral spring water that rises from the earth at about 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

The resort has evolved considerably over the past century, but the core attraction remains unchanged. Water emerges from deep underground at temperatures approaching 165°F, naturally heated by geothermal forces. This isn’t a spa with artificially heated pools. This is legitimate geothermal activity channeled into pools and baths for human enjoyment.

What distinguishes Chena Hot Springs from countless other hot spring destinations worldwide is the setting and the innovation. You’re 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks, surrounded by genuine Alaska wilderness. The resort pioneered geothermal technology that powers nearly everything on site, making it one of the most sustainable tourism operations anywhere. And the combination of hot springs with prime northern lights viewing creates opportunities for experiences that sound too good to be true but absolutely exist.

Chena Hot Springs Resort: More Than Just Water

Today’s Chena Hot Springs Resort encompasses 80 rooms in the main lodge, 8 dry cabins for those wanting more rustic accommodations, full-service restaurant and bar, and extensive activity options that range from dog sledding to greenhouse tours. But at its heart, the resort remains centered on those geothermal waters.

The outdoor Rock Lake provides the signature experience. This large outdoor pool maintains temperatures between 90-106°F depending on season and water flow, all from natural hot springs. In winter, when air temperatures drop to 40 below or colder, the contrast creates steam clouds so thick you sometimes can’t see the person soaking next to you. In summer, when Alaska enjoys 20-hour daylight and comfortable temperatures, the hot springs offer a different kind of relaxation, a place to soak after hiking or adventuring through the surrounding wilderness.

The indoor pool house provides a more controlled environment with pools, hot tubs, and changing facilities. This works particularly well for families with children or anyone wanting hot spring access without braving Alaska winter weather. However, most visitors ultimately gravitate to the outdoor Rock Lake, drawn by the authentic Alaska experience of soaking outside under vast skies.

According to California News Press, accommodations at Chena Hot Springs Resort include ensuite lodge rooms with entertainment systems, beverage centers, telephone services, and for overnight guests, unlimited access to the hot springs. Day visitors pay $15 per adult (as of 2024) plus $5 towel rental if needed, though bringing your own towel saves that fee.

The Aurora Ice Museum: A Frozen Masterpiece

Here’s where Chena Hot Springs transcends typical hot springs resorts and enters genuinely unique territory. The Aurora Ice Museum, built in 2005, holds the title of world’s largest year-round ice environment. Think about that for a moment. Year-round. In Alaska, where summer temperatures regularly reach the 70s and 80s, an entire building made of ice stays frozen 365 days annually.

How? Geothermal-powered absorption chiller technology, the first of its kind used for this purpose anywhere in the world. The same hot springs that heat the pools power the refrigeration system keeping the Ice Museum at a constant 25°F (about -7°C). This represents remarkable engineering and a perfect example of how Chena Hot Springs has innovated beyond simply offering hot water.

The museum contains over 1,000 tons of ice and snow, all harvested locally from the Chena Hot Springs property. World champion ice carvers Steve and Heather Brice created the sculptures, and their work goes far beyond simple ice carving. You’ll find two-story ice towers, a jousting knight display, bedrooms with ice furniture, an ice fireplace, ice chandeliers that refract colored lights mimicking the aurora borealis, and a fully functional ice bar.

That ice bar deserves special mention. For an additional $20, you can order an appletini served in a glass carved from ice. After finishing your drink, you’re encouraged to smash the ice glass on the ground outside (oddly satisfying, as many visitors report). It’s touristy? Sure. But when you’re standing in a building made of ice in the middle of Alaska summer, drinking from a frozen glass, certain tourist activities earn their place through sheer uniqueness.

Tours run daily at 11 AM, 1 PM, 3 PM, 5 PM, and 7 PM. Tickets cost $20 for adults and $15 for youth ages 6-11. The tours last approximately 45 minutes, and parkas are provided free of charge (you’ll need them, given the 25°F interior temperature). The museum opens 365 days annually, making it accessible regardless of when you visit Alaska.

Northern Lights Viewing at Chena Hot Springs

If you’re visiting Alaska hoping to see the aurora borealis, Chena Hot Springs provides one of the best viewing locations anywhere in the state. The resort sits under the auroral oval (the region where northern lights most frequently appear), minimal light pollution exists for miles around, and the clear skies typical of interior Alaska create ideal conditions.

The viewing season runs from late August through late April, with peak activity typically occurring during equinox periods (late September and late March). The resort offers guided aurora viewing tours that take guests to high points on the property for unobstructed sky views, heated yurts provide warm waiting areas, and of course, you can watch from the hot springs themselves.

That last option creates the signature Chena Hot Springs experience. Soaking in naturally heated water under dancing curtains of green, purple, and red light connects you to natural forces in ways that typical tourism simply doesn’t offer. The northern lights don’t follow schedules or guarantee appearances, but when conditions align and you’re watching aurora from a hot spring in the Alaska wilderness, you understand why people travel thousands of miles for this specific experience.

The best months for northern lights viewing in Alaska are typically late August through September (darker nights return as fall arrives), December through February (peak darkness with long viewing windows), and late March (increasing aurora activity around spring equinox). The resort cannot guarantee aurora appearances (they’re a natural phenomenon dependent on solar activity and weather), but location and viewing infrastructure maximize your chances.

Activities Beyond the Hot Springs

Chena Hot Springs Resort offers extensive activities across all seasons, turning what could be a simple hot springs stop into a multi-day destination.

Winter Activities (November through March):

• Authentic dog sled rides on a 1.5-mile trail through surrounding wilderness
• Snowmobile tours offering scenic views and adrenaline
• Aurora viewing tours with heated yurts and expert guides
• Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on maintained trails
• Ice fishing on nearby lakes

Summer Activities (May through September):

• Dog cart rides (yes, the sled dogs work year-round, pulling carts instead of sleds)
• ATV tours through Monument Creek trail
• Horseback riding on scenic trails
• Mountain biking on resort trails
• Hiking ranging from easy walks to challenging climbs
• Flightseeing tours arranged through the resort

Year-Round Activities:

• Geothermal renewable energy tours showcasing the resort’s pioneering technology
• Greenhouse tours displaying vegetables grown in the Arctic using geothermal heat
• Massage services and spa treatments
• Photography workshops (the resort’s photogenic setting attracts serious photographers)
• Wildlife viewing (moose, fox, and various bird species frequent the area)

The greenhouse tours deserve special mention. The resort grows tomatoes, lettuce, and other fresh produce year-round in Alaska using geothermal heat and hydroponic systems. This isn’t just innovative. It’s necessary. Shipping fresh produce to remote Alaska locations costs significantly, and growing vegetables locally reduces both costs and environmental impact. The greenhouse tour reveals how the resort has developed sustainable systems that could serve as models for other remote locations worldwide.

Getting to Chena Hot Springs from Fairbanks

The resort sits approximately 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks, about a 90-minute drive. From Fairbanks, take the Steese Highway on the east side of town about five miles to the junction with Chena Hot Springs Road. The resort is 56 miles up the valley from that junction.

The road (Chena Hot Springs Road) is paved and well-maintained, open year-round though winter driving requires preparation. The drive itself offers scenic value, following the Chena River through boreal forest with frequent wildlife viewing opportunities. Moose, fox, and occasionally bears can be spotted, especially during early morning or evening hours.

Driving Considerations:

• Fill your gas tank in Fairbanks before departing. No gas stations exist on Chena Hot Springs Road.
• In winter, bring emergency supplies (blankets, food, water, flashlight) in case of breakdown in cold weather.
• Cell service is limited. Verizon and ACS Alaska work at the resort, but AT&T, Sprint, T-Mobile, and GCI don’t.
• Allow extra time in winter when road conditions can slow travel.
• Wildlife on the road is common. Drive cautiously, especially at dawn and dusk.

Alternative Transportation: If you prefer not to drive, several Fairbanks tour operators offer transportation to Chena Hot Springs. These packages typically include Ice Museum admission, hot springs access, and sometimes meals. Prices vary but expect to pay $100-200 per person depending on what’s included. The advantage is not worrying about driving, especially if you’ve enjoyed an appletini at the ice bar.

The resort also operates a daily shuttle from Fairbanks International Airport (56 miles from the property). Advance arrangements are required. Contact the resort directly at (907) 451-8104 for shuttle details and pricing.

Accommodations at Chena Hot Springs Resort

Main Lodge Rooms (80 rooms): These ensuite accommodations include flat-screen TVs, beverage centers with small refrigerators, telephone service, and unlimited hot springs access for overnight guests. The rooms are basic but comfortable, reflecting the resort’s focus on outdoor activities rather than luxury lodging. Importantly, the rooms are heated by geothermal steam, which sometimes makes them quite warm. You control steam flow with a valve, but opening windows helps regulate temperature. This is particularly relevant in winter when outside temperatures are far below zero but rooms can get toasty.

Dry Cabins (8 available): More rustic option without running water or bathrooms. Guests use the shared bathhouse facilities. These appeal to visitors wanting authentic Alaska cabin experiences while still having access to hot springs and other resort amenities.

Yurt Rentals: Available seasonally for those seeking unique overnight experiences.

RV Camping: Small campground operates during summer months. Spots book quickly, so advance reservations are essential.

Important Policy Note: For overnight guests, hot springs access is included in your room rate. Towel service is also included (one towel per hot springs visit), though you’ll pay $0.50 to use a locker each time. Day visitors pay $15 per adult for hot springs access plus $5 for towel rental if needed.

Rates vary significantly by season, with peak pricing during winter aurora season (December through March) and summer (June through August). Shoulder seasons (April-May and September-November) offer better values. Check the resort’s website or call for current pricing.

Dining at Chena Hot Springs

The resort operates a full-service restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu emphasizes Alaska ingredients including salmon, halibut, and reindeer, though standard options like burgers and pasta are available. The restaurant also features greenhouse-grown vegetables, allowing you to taste tomatoes and lettuce grown on-site using geothermal heat.

Portions are generous, and many guests report meals large enough to split. Prices reflect the remote location and high cost of importing ingredients to rural Alaska. Expect to pay $15-25 for lunch items and $25-45 for dinner entrees. The restaurant’s honey walnut salad dressing receives frequent praise from visitors.

The Trails End Lounge provides a bar setting with lighter fare, drinks, and a more casual atmosphere than the restaurant.

The Aurora Cafe (located in the Activity Center) operates 24 hours, serving coffee, snacks, and light meals for guests at any hour.

Given the remote location, bringing some food makes sense, especially snacks or breakfast items to supplement restaurant meals. The lodge rooms include small refrigerators allowing food storage.

FAQ

Why Chena Hot Springs Matters

In an era of manufactured experiences and Instagram-driven tourism, places like Chena Hot Springs offer something increasingly rare: genuine connection to natural forces that operate completely independent of human intervention. The water emerges from deep underground at 165 degrees because geothermal heat warms it, not because anyone flipped a switch. The northern lights dance when solar particles interact with Earth’s magnetic field, not according to any show schedule.

The resort’s pioneering work with geothermal technology also matters. By developing systems that turn hot spring heat into electricity, refrigeration, and greenhouse growing capacity, Chena Hot Springs demonstrates sustainable models applicable worldwide. The Ice Museum stays frozen in summer heat using power from the same hot springs that heat the pools. Tomatoes grow year-round in the Arctic using geothermal heat. This represents genuine innovation driven by necessity and location.

But ultimately, most visitors care less about the engineering and more about the experience. Soaking in naturally heated water when it’s 40 below outside. Touring a building made entirely of ice in the middle of summer. Watching the aurora borealis from a hot tub. These aren’t typical vacation experiences. They’re the kind of moments that become stories told for years afterward, the experiences that remind you why you travel in the first place.

Planning Your Chena Hot Springs Visit

When to Go: December through March for winter experiences and northern lights viewing. June through August for summer activities and nearly 24-hour daylight. September for aurora viewing combined with fall colors and fewer crowds.

How Long to Stay: Minimum overnight, ideally 2-3 nights to experience multiple activities and maximize aurora viewing chances.

What to Bring:

• Swimsuit (required for hot springs)
• Towel (or plan to rent for $5)
• Extreme cold weather gear if visiting in winter (Fairbanks outfitters can provide arctic clothing rentals)
• Camera or smartphone with extra batteries (cold drains batteries quickly in winter)
• Water bottle to stay hydrated during hot springs soaking
• Cash or card (cell service is limited, so having multiple payment options helps)

Booking: Contact the resort directly at (907) 451-8104 or through their website. Book well in advance for winter aurora season (December-March), as rooms fill months ahead.

Realistic Expectations: This is a remote Alaska resort, not a luxury spa. Rooms are comfortable but basic. Food is good but pricey. Service is generally friendly but sometimes stretched thin during busy periods. The hot springs are genuine but smell slightly of sulfur (as most natural hot springs do). The appeal lies in authenticity and location, not polished luxury.

The aurora cannot be guaranteed. It’s a natural phenomenon dependent on solar activity and clear skies. Even with perfect conditions, the lights might not appear. Book your Chena Hot Springs trip for the hot springs, Ice Museum, activities, and Alaska experience. If you see the aurora, consider it a spectacular bonus rather than a guaranteed entitlement.

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs

The Verdict

Is Chena Hot Springs worth the 120-mile round trip from Fairbanks? Absolutely, especially if you combine hot springs soaking with the Ice Museum, at least one activity (dog sledding or snowmobiling in winter, ATV or horseback riding in summer), and enough time to potentially see the aurora if visiting during dark season.

The resort isn’t perfect. Rooms get warm due to geothermal heating. Food costs more than in Fairbanks. Cell service is limited. Service can be inconsistent during peak periods. But these relatively minor issues pale compared to the unique experiences available here.

Where else can you soak in naturally heated water at 106 degrees when air temperature is 40 below? Where else can you tour a building made entirely of ice kept frozen year-round by geothermal power? Where else can you watch the aurora borealis from a hot tub, combining two of nature’s most spectacular phenomena into a single experience?

The answer: nowhere else combines these specific elements. That’s what makes Chena Hot Springs matter. In a world where so much tourism feels interchangeable, where you can find similar experiences in multiple locations, Chena offers something genuinely unique. The geothermal waters have been flowing for thousands of years. The aurora has been dancing for far longer. What’s remarkable is that someone created infrastructure allowing humans to comfortably experience both simultaneously.

So yes, make the drive up Chena Hot Springs Road. Book a room or plan a day trip. Tour the Ice Museum. Take a dog sled ride or snowmobile through Alaska wilderness. Soak in those hot springs until you’re pruney and relaxed. And if you’re lucky enough to watch the northern lights while immersed in naturally heated water, well, that’s the kind of experience that reminds you why Alaska has captured human imagination for as long as people have ventured north.

The water is hot. The ice is frozen. The aurora is dancing. The only question is when you’ll make the journey to see it for yourself.

Sources:

• Chena Hot Spring Resort – Alaska.org
• Soak Up the Scene at Chena Hot Springs Resort – California News Press